Parque Rural de Anaga – Tenerife
Even on an island of dramatic contrasts like Tenerife, the Parque Rural de Anaga doesn’t just whisper its magic – it bellows it from high volcanic rooftops, that look across plunging ravines and lush valleys.
Located in the island’s remote north-eastern area, Anaga feels like another world entirely, offering a wild, time-warped world of raw nature where ancient forests climb up steep mountain sides, amidst centuries old settlements. Not only a complete contrast to other parts of the island, but also one of Europe’s most challenging adventure destinations.
I, like many visiting for the first time, was instantly won over, finding the whole national park enthralling, and utterly enticing. I cannot recommend it enough.
Exploring Anaga, by vehicle or on foot, is to wander through an extraordinary mix of geology, history, biodiversity, and culture. From paths through curling limbs of gnarled laurisilva trees, to hillside settlements and historical trails, this is Tenerife in its rawest, most authentic form.
But, make no mistake. Anaga is remote, rugged and raw. The terrain is fierce, with peaks rising abruptly, often veiled in swirling cloud. These aren’t gentle hills, even though they offer a maze of hiking trails. A good map and hiking App are essential for navigation, as a wrong turn can lead to hours of steep back tracking and heart pounding, as you navigate your way through often impenetrable terrain, albeit with periodic glimpses of views to die for.
Although Anaga is accessible from anywhere on the island, an early start is recommended. As at dawn, a mist rolls off the Atlantic like a veil being drawn, and for a moment, the high ridges glow in a golden hush. Then, as the sun breaks through, the Park unveils its full scale and drama, with high mountain tops giving way to disappearing ravines pierced by ever changing shards of light.
Step into the heart of the forest and the world changes. The temperature cools, the canopy closes in. This is ‘monteverde’ (Tenerife’s famed evergreen cloud forest), an ancient, living relic that once blanketed much of Southern Europe. You soon appreciate how Anaga protects one of the largest and best-preserved examples of this ecosystem in the world.
The flora is astonishing: over 1,900 plant species, including 200 endemic to the Canary Islands, and 70 found nowhere but Anaga itself. You soon become familiar with towering laurel, twisted til, ferns, heather that grows like trees, blooming flowers and carpets of liverworts and mosses clinging to every crevice.
And it’s not just the plants. Anaga is teeming with elusive fauna, much of which is endemic and under studied. There are more than 40 species of land snails alone, some found nowhere else on earth, and a kaleidoscope of rare invertebrates. Birdlife is equally special, with over 200 species recorded each year.
It’s no wonder that local folklore speaks of spirits and forest guardians. This whole place feels enchanted, alive and ancient all at once.
Descend deeper into the ravines and you reach the sparsely populated villages. Twenty-six previously registered small settlements, estimated to house between 2,500 and 3,000 people. As if totally off-grid, there’s a feeling of yesteryear around every turn.
Here, locals still cultivate terraced fields carved into impossibly steep slopes. Goats are herded in the old ways, and the wine is legendary. The hospitality too, is as natural as the surroundings, offered with a lyrical Canarian-Spanish lilt.
Remote by nature and fiercely protected by its people, Anaga offers something increasingly rare – the feeling that you’ve stumbled upon a secret. A place where biodiversity thrives, where culture endures, and where nature still calls the shots.
More than a park, Anaga is Tenerife’s untamed soul.
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