Tucked into the eastern reaches of the Kathmandu Valley, just 13kms from the capital Kathmandu, lies Bhaktapur. An historically old city that continues to belong to yesteryear.

Known historically as Bhadgaon, and affectionately called Khwopa by the local Newar community, Bhaktapur is a living canvas of Nepal’s soul. Where past and present coexist amidst the centuries-old temples, sacred squares and red-brick alleys. Visitors today can witness a busy street scene with all manner of society enjoying one of Asia’s most traditional and historic old city centres. Market traders, playing children and local meet-up discussions continuing as they have for over a thousand years.

Certainly, it is one of my favourite places in this special Himalaya dominated country.

First impressions matter, and Bhaktapur delivers them in sweeping, cinematic scenes. Whether you arrive during the early mist of morning or the golden glow of sunset, the city opens like a storybook. With its pages etched with art, faith, and festivals. This is no museum piece behind glass. It’s a place where daily life is woven directly into heritage.

Pottery spun on wheels just as it has been for generations, farmers laying rice in the sun along cobbled lanes, and children darting between shrines with tikas on their foreheads.

Founded in the 12th century by King Ananda Malla, Bhaktapur rose as the capital of the Malla Kingdom, reaching its cultural and architectural peak between the 14th and 15th centuries. It became one of the three jewel cities of the valley (alongside Kathmandu and Patan), after the Malla domain fractured in 1482. Though it fell under Gorkha control in 1769 during the unification of Nepal, Bhaktapur’s identity never faded. Even the devastating earthquakes of 1934, and more recently 2015, which damaged many of its landmarks, couldn’t erase its legacy. Much of which have been lovingly restored.

In 1979, UNESCO gave it rightful recognition as a World Heritage Site.

Wandering through Bhaktapur today, feels like stepping onto the set of a spiritual and artistic epic. Durbar Square, the city’s centrepiece, is a majestic convergence of temples, palaces, and public life. The 55-Window Palace stuns with its intricate timber artistry, while the towering Nyatapola Temple – built in 1702 and standing five tiers high – commands both reverence and awe, dedicated to the goddess Siddhi Lakshmi.

Each corner of Bhaktapur seems to whisper a tale. From the serene Vatsala Temple with its stone guardians, to the vibrant Taumadhi Square, alive with local chatter and the burning incense.

This city breathes devotion. Bhaktapur’s people remain deeply religious, with a beautiful intertwining of Hinduism and Buddhism that manifests in every ritual, shrine, and celebration. The divine feels close here, evident, whether you are watching morning pujas unfold at street shrines, or witnessing the sacred frenzy of Biska Jatra, when colossal chariots rumble through the city in a timeless tug-of-war between gods and men. Equally, Gai Jatra brings humour to mourning, with families honouring lost loved ones through masks, music, and satire. All of which is a poignant testament to the Newar way of finding joy even in sorrow.

Furthermore, the local culture is as tactile as it is visual. I can still hear the rhythmic hammering of bronze bowls, smell the spice-laden air of open markets, and taste the rich flavours of juju dhau, Bhaktapur’s legendary ‘king of curds’. At the heart of this community are artisans – woodcarvers, weavers, and potters – who continue their ancestral crafts not for tourists, but for tradition, for beauty, and for faith.

Although modernism has reached the edges of Bhaktapur, but it has not dulled its soul. Cars are few, and the air is lighter for it. There is a feeling of ‘preservation’ being a way of life, as Bhaktapur invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and let yourself be drawn into its spell.

Which is hugely refreshing, in an ever-changing world so eager to forget the old ways, just sitting, watching and soaking up the local hubbub will win you over.

So, even when focusing on the higher mountains and trekking routes of Nepal, make sure you allow time to visit all things Bhaktapur. As it will forever be one of your fondest Nepalese memories.