Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle (08.08.14)

The Cultural Triangle is without doubt one of Asia’s most exciting inland regions, yet it is relatively under-visited. It is located in the heart of Sri Lanka’s green and pleasant upcountry region, just over 100 miles (180kms) from Colombo’s west coast.

Polonnruwa Buddha carving

Polonnruwa Buddha carving

Although I first visited the region thirty years ago, I am still bowled over each time I return. This is not only by the splendid combination of ancient cities, dramatic Buddhist shrines and altogether ‘lost in time’ ambiance. It’s also because when I first visited in 1984 the brutal civil war was starting, which meant that large chunks of northern Sri Lanka, including the Cultural Triangle, were left unvisited by foreigners for several decades.

Today visitors can marvel at the 2,000 year old historical sites of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa without fear of experiencing the instability that so dominated the area from the 1980s until recently. Kandy, the last Royal Kingdom to resist British rule, is the springboard to the region, and Sigiriya Rock Fortress is one of my all-time favourite historical monuments.

I am equally fond of the calm, colourful and captivating rock temple caves at Dambulla. Throw in the ancient Monastery of Ritigale, Temple of the Tooth at Kandy and the birthplace of Buddhism at Mihintal, and you have your work cut out. Finding seven UNESCO declared World Heritage Sites across such a small area is difficult to beat.

Sigiriya Fortress view

Sigiriya Fortress view

In addition any visit to this region should combine the charming site of the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage daily river washing, 8 miles (13km) north of Kegalle Town.

Charming and welcoming in equal measure, the Cultural Triangle sites are a truly magnificent collection of cultural destinations which we, at Nomadic Thoughts, have been including in clients’ itineraries for many years. We recommend factoring in at least a week for the region… ideally two. The additional good news is that the ever expanding variety of boutique hotels, idyllic rural locations and dramatic landscapes also combine to make a visit to the Triangle one of any visitor’s travel highlights.

Sigiriya Rock Fortress, which I first visited in 1984, is considered by many to be one of the ancient Wonders of the World. Standing high on the top of the natural rock plinth, visible for miles around, the ancient abode has to be one of the world’s most impressive naturally protected housing projects. Climbing up the iron stairs, cut into today’s rock-face, is impressive enough. The feat of accessing this ancient 5th century castle, built by King Kasyapa, in centuries gone, can only be admired. The ancient dwelling itself, with bare breasted pilgrim cave paintings, water tanks carved deep in the rock and patterned agricultural land is as impressive as the stunning views from the top.

Dambulla cave temple

Dambulla cave temple

The Dambulla Raja Maha Viharaya, with its mystical rock temple caves, is another of my favourites. It is beautifully preserved with a never-ending stream of pilgrims, Buddhist priests and incensed offerings. I can still remember my children, aged 4, delighting in assuming the prayer position in front of every burning oil candles, as a mischievous monkeys circled our snack bag like mongeese dancing with a snake charmer’s cobra.

Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa are particularly impressive, although I would highly recommend you visit under the guidance of one of our specially selected guides. Their expert knowledge brings the buildings, temples and sprawling settlements to life in a way unimaginable to the untrained eye.

Kandy’s Temple of the Tooth, which I remember as much for the buildings as the local pilgrims, I first visited thirty years ago. Every time I return it appears to be as vibrant and colourful as ever. Kandyan dancers, devoted priests and excited visitors give off as great an air of excitement and wonder today as ever before as they wander through the heart of the royal city’s temple and palace complex. Visits during their special night time ceremonies are some of the most thrilling. If you enjoy your cricket, during the daytime Kandy (birth place of Muttiah Muralitharan  {Murali} – Wisden Cricketers’ Almanack 2002 Greatest Test Match Bowler) has the most delightful of cricket grounds.

The photos in this blog post were taken during our first family visit to Sri Lanka.

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Sigiriya Gardens from the Rock Fortess

Sigiriya Gardens from the Rock Fortess

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